While "Mission style" scapulars may be mass-produced easily, 8 at a time,
"Woven style" scapulars can be mass-prepared for stitching,
but must be finished one at a time.
The woven style scapular is called "washable" because the images
and borders of the wool are completely stitched,
and will not fall apart if they get wet, like the iron-on patches will.
Our instructions will guide you through the steps to make woven scapulars
in bulk, 6 at a time, for sale or free distribution.
PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE BEGINNING YOUR WORK
Scapular-making kits provide the wool in varying widths,
usually no less than one yard.
We like to work with pieces of wool wide enough
to complete six scapulars at a time.
The smaller strip of wool is easier to manipulate
under the sewing machine needle.
If you will be making only one scapular,
adjust the measurements below accordingly.
A pair of sharp scissors, or rotary cutter, clean cutting surface,
an iron and clean lint-free ironing surface, a ruler,
and a sewing machine are necessary to make Brown Scapulars.
Load both the top thread and bobbin with a good Brown Thread.
Woven Scapulars may also be hand-sewn;
follow the same steps of mounting the images on the wool,
and positioning the cord.
Use a basic running stitch or overcast stitch to secure the images;
overcast stitch the wool borders.
Iron the wool to remove wrinkles, with a cool iron, silk to wool setting.
Test heat first on a small portion of the image and wool.
Adjust heat if needed.
PREPARE THE IMAGES
Depending on the supplier, images can vary widely.
Church Regulations do not require images
but it is customary to attach these in one form or another.
You will find that the top and bottom edges of some woven prints have already
been pressed, so that the raw edges face the back of the print,
making them ready to sew.
But occasionally, the edges have been pressed unevenly.
To reset the edge, open the pressed edge
with the tip of your iron set for steam and iron the print edge flat.
Fold the edge over again straight, and steam press closed.
Iron the prints so corners are squared and print lays flat again.
The folded edge of the prints serve as your sewing line guide,
so it is important that the edges are straight,
as close to a 90 degree angle as possible.
(No need to measure, just "eyeball" a straight edge. )
Cutting the Cord
Cut lengths of cord to your organization's specifications, usually 21 inches.
Cords for Scapulars intended for use by adults are usually cut to this length.
For children's Scapulars, 18 inch cords are preferred.
To cut cord in bulk, lay a number of loops of cord over on itself
on a flat cutting surface to 22 inches wide.
Use inch guide on cutting mat or yard stick to mark out 21 inches.
Place tape over cord., then wrap as shown.
(Painters Blue Mask tape works very well.)
Secure the loops with tape at both ends, marking the cutting position.
Cut at the taped edges
OR, cut cords individually to 21 inches.
Leave one end taped for easy handling of cords while you work.
Cord may be ironed if needed, with or without steam.
Cutting the Wool
Fold a portion of the fabric over on itself to form 2 layers.
Lay the wool out on your cutting surface.
Measure to cut your first strip set 2 1/2 inches wide by 13 1/2 " long
Measure with a straight edge ruler.
If producing scapulars in bulk, cut the remainder of the wool
into the same size strips, and stack the wool strips for later use.
Using Fusible Web
Fusible web (sold as Stitch Witchery, Heat N Bond and other trade names)
is a man made fiber which melts when heated.
When placed between two pieces of fabric, the melting action of the webbing
causes it to fuse the fabrics together. It is like iron-on glue!
Fusible web is available in various weights.
A lightweight fusible web is preferred for woven scapulars
as you will be sewing the edges of the prints.
The sewing needle passes easily through this heated bond material.
If you have sewn applique before, you will know what a great tool
fusible web is for precision sewing.
We use fusible web to adhere the prints to the wool before sewing.
While this step is not absolutely necessary,
we have found it is a great help to keeping the prints in proper position
while you sew, and adds another layer to the scapular,
making it slightly thicker and more sturdy.
Some suppliers provide iron-on images, making the use of fusible web unnecessary.
Cut strips of the fusible web 1 3/4 inches wide
Cut again to form a 1 3/8 wide rectangle.
Match fusing to prints and trim any excess
to prevent glue from sticking to the iron.
Cut only as many as you will need per sewing session;
handle as little as possible to retain its "sticking power."
NOW THAT ALL OF YOUR MATERIALS HAVE BEEN PREPARED
YOU ARE READY TO BEGIN WORK ON THE SCAPULARS
Place a strip of wool on ironing surface.
Arrange face prints approximately 3/4 inches apart on wool,
about one half inch from the top.
Place a fusible web rectangle under each print
and iron over prints, one at a time, firmly for 15 - 20 seconds
or until the bonding agent adheres to the wool.
Check heat setting regularly to prevent scorching of the print.
Repeat for each of the 6 prints.
Turn the wool strip over and iron the reverse side,
ensuring a fully heated bonding of the web and prints to the wool.
Move strip to your cutting surface.
Place a second strip of wool under the first. Line edges up evenly.
Tuck 2 cords in under each image, between the 2 layers of wool,
about half an inch in from the top.
Center the two cords between the edges of the print.
Space Cords 1/4 to 1/2 inches apart.
Pin the 2 cords in place, being careful not to pin the print.
Keep cords perpendicular to the print.
Pin cords to all six prints in the same way.
Use "Liquid Stitch" to dot a tiny bit of glue on each cord end.
Carefully place top wool strip over the cords and
smooth with your hand.
The Liquid stitch dries quickly; by the time you are ready to begin sewing
the cords should be securely dried in place.
SEWING THE CORDS
Load machine top spindle and bobbin with Brown Thread.
To attach cord, run a basting stitch slightly above the images
all the way across the wool strip, not stopping between images.
Stitch line indicated by white dashes as shown above.
Use a loose basting stitch, just enough to catch the cords.
Keep cords perpendicular as you sew.
SEWING THE PRINTS
Set machine stitch width to the widest on your machine.
Set the stitches per inch to the smallest size. (most stitches per inch)
Choose a blanket stitch, or ZigZag stitch, close set or wide.
Test stitch on scrap wool first; check for tension adjustments
on your own machine.
Sewing machines differ, so check to see that the width of your stitches
is at least 1/4 inch wide.
As indicated by the pointer's white line and dashes above
begin stitching a border around the face image;
one side of your stitch should catch the very edge of the image;
the other side of the stitch extends to form a finished edge
from which the excess wool will later be trimmed.
The first stitch begins 1/4 inch from edge of face print.
Above, we have highlighted the area of wool to be stitched around the print.
Sew a Blanket or ZigZag stitch across the top of the face print,
beginning 1/4 inch before the print and ending 1/4 inch after the print
Leave the needle in place at that last stitch, raise the presser foot,
and pivot the wool strip to align the right side of the patch for sewing.
Lower presser foot and stitch over the previous stitches
to form the corner.
Stitch down the right side.
Follow the same pivot and sew-over-stitches for the remaining corners.
Finish sewing the rest of the face prints on the wool strip
using the same method.
SEPARATING THE SCAPULAR PRINTS
You will find a clear quilter's ruler and rotary cutter will prove invaluable
for cutting apart the scapulars.
Otherwise use a ruler to mark a cutting line around the border stitching:
LEFT SIDE, BOTTOM and RIGHT SIDE.
The top will be trimmed later.
Use a rotary cutter or sharp scissors to cut each finished scapular.
BE CAREFUL! DO NOT CUT STITCHING!
A tiny excess of wool will remain outside of the stitches.
This will wear away over time as the scapular is worn on the body.
TRIMMING THE TOP
Use sharp scissors for this step.
Draw the cords up taut between your fingers.
Fold the cords down toward the back to prevent them from being cut
and CAREFULLY trim excess wool from the top of the scapular.
Turn the scapular over and trim from that side in the same way.
Snip away any stray thread or fibers.
We offer Woven Image Brown Scapular Starter Kits and many other beginner Kits
at our store.
For our full line of finished rosaries, scapulars, chaplets, candles, booklets and specialty rosary kits visit our